According to the creativity and differentiated cutting on stones used in the manufacturing of jewelry and semiprecious jewelry, the type of stone setting has also evolved, which can be done in several ways.
In a creative way, the stone setting can take several forms: round, oval, square, even irregular if the stone should be attached this way.
Get to know some of the most commonly used stone settings:
SETTING WITH PRONGS
This type of nailing can have three to six prongs, it is where the stone is attached to the semiprecious jewelry or jewelry through prongs.
In this case, the finalization of the prongs is done according to the visual effect that is intended.
BEZEL AND GYPSY SETTINGS
The Bezel setting is done using a metal hoop that applies pressure all around the gemstone.
In the Gypsy setting, a hole is made in the sheet where the stone is thoroughly put and attached by gold or silver, that after, is pushed with specific tools through all the stone contour.
This type is widely used in high jewelry stores, in the case of several small stones that are placed as close as possible to each other, creating a uniform arrangement. They are set in holes and fastened to the sheet by small metal grains, usually the burin is used as a tool.
It has the same process used in Pave setting. A box is carved, and the stone (gem) framed with the aid of the burin.
In this setting, the stones (gems) are placed in a row between two parallel metal “rails” and attached between the groove made in the inner sides of the metal and the upper edge of the rail.
For this type the setting of precious stones (gems) is made by adjusting the gem in a hole in the gold or silver metal sheet. Four “small mustaches” are cut from the silver or gold sheet and raised to hold the gem.
Para este tipo a cravação de pedras preciosas (gemas) é feita ajustando a gema em um furo na chapa de metal de ouro ou prata. Quatro “bigodinhos” são cortados da chapa de prata ou ouro e levantados para prender a gema.
Very discreet and quite used in the manufacturing of jewelry and semiprecious jewelry, the invisible setting happens through the gems that are set in a metal mesh, which passes below the waist of the gem. Also, these gems must be prepared to fit, under pressure, to the metal mesh.
The stones are attached under the tension exerted by the force that a tense metal exerts on the gems.
SETTING TO CABOCHON CUTTING
In this type of gem, because it has a flat base, it needs a metal hoop that exerts pressure all around, which is welded to a base with an opening smaller than the size of the gem in its bottom, allowing its fixation and the passage of light.
The style with a ferrule, is the oldest setting used and universal, as it can be used for any type of stone. It creates a kind of frame on the stone, it is made using a tool to hammer the ends of the ferrule, and this way, push the metal over the edges of the gemstone.
It is inserted the placement of “shells” with silver or gold spike (thread), if the gem is cut with vertical hole, or the application of threads forming triangles, rings or other creations. In either case, these spikes or threads will be glued into the gem hole.
SETTING TO PEARLS OU SPHERIC SHAPE
In these cases the assembly is done with passing thread, which termination will depend on the type of creation of the piece, and there is the option of placing “shells” with pin – this pin is glued inside the gemstone.
As we have seen, the settings can be of different ways, always cherishing to maintain the beauty and the safety of the stone with the jewelry.
Have you approved? This and other materials on precious stones and semiprecious jewelry, you can find on our website: http://www.belapedra.com.br/